tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-77525470764100976742024-03-08T03:04:09.648-05:00Stitch SchoolA blog featuring hand embroidery tutorials with each stitch explained in step-by-step instructions and photographs.janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.comBlogger69125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-23872618523347887362012-11-01T12:19:00.000-04:002016-07-01T08:36:53.933-04:00it's good to be crafty<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/8123029595/"><img alt="embroidered belt" height="169" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8186/8123029595_38e60b1beb.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I've been seeing a lot of these fair-trade made-in-Peru embroidered belts in catalogs this year. Sundance Catalog has snowflake designs; Uncommon Goods has florals. Hand-embroidered and pretty but, at $65 to $68 each, definitely out of my price range. They're really very simply constructed—a length of cotton webbing and a buckle—it's the embroidery that's making them so expensive. But hey, we know how to do that ourselves, don't we?</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/8123029533/"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img alt="embroidered belt" height="86" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8473/8123029533_3b48e81724.jpg" width="450" /></span></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">If you want to try something like this yourself, I'd use the lighter weight webbing (the heavyweight, like I use for my key fobs, will be difficult to pass a needle through), a heavier needle with a larger eye, and a thimble to protect your fingers. Sketch your basic design with white pencil—I don't think you need to get too detailed—freeform might yield some "happy accidents". Because you want a lot of impact, use all six strands of embroidery floss or, better yet, wool—the kind used for crewel embroidery. I think you can do most of the embroidery in chain stitch (single rows or several rows packed closely together) and French knots. I'm not sure how to do the grommets but there's probably a tool for attaching them. Or you could do a D-ring type belt and you wouldn't need them at all.</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/8123047152/"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img alt="embroidered belt close up" height="180" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8051/8123047152_60322d050a.jpg" width="450" /></span></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Some other things you could liven up with embroidery—add some flowers to a plain woolen hat or scarf or embellish a secondhand sweater with some flowers scattered across the front.</span>janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-15009733257617109442012-10-26T07:00:00.000-04:002016-07-01T08:37:56.592-04:00autumn flowers<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I once promised to post pictures of any reader projects embroidered using stitches learned here at Stitch School. I think it's inspiring to see what others are doing and to hear about their process so I'm always happy to post pictures for show-and-tell. </span><br />
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</span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "tahoma"; font-size: 13px;">Amanda S. wrote yesterday to tell me about an embroidery project she just completed. She received it from her mother one Christmas with a note saying that when she was done stitching it, her mother would finish quilting it. With a big smiley face on the bottom. She probably thought it would be a while before she saw it back. And it did sit in Amanda's to-do pile for a while because she didn't know how to do most of the stitches required.</span></span><br />
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</span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "tahoma"; font-size: 13px;">Recently it made it's way to the top of the pile and she said to herself "I can do this." After stumbling across Stitch School on the internet and learning the stitches, she completed it in about a week. And took a picture (shown here) before sending it to her mother. Now it's buried in <b>her</b> to-do pile awaiting a rick rack border and backing fabric.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "tahoma"; font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/8122868373/"><img alt="amanda's embroidery" height="338" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8191/8122868373_0aa4ba13d4.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="450" /></a></span></span></span><br />
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</span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "tahoma"; font-size: 13px;">Some of the stitches she used are beading (a very cool way to do blackberries!), lazy daisy, french knots, feather stitch, and satin stitch. A big round of applause for Amanda—great job! </span></span><br />
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</span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "tahoma"; font-size: 13px;">It's craft show season for me so I haven't been doing much embroidery myself. But winter is coming and, for me, that's the perfect time to curl up with a project or two. I'm easily bored so I usually work back and forth on a few things at once :)</span></span>janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-13098640025337603552012-08-05T11:32:00.000-04:002016-07-01T08:38:51.489-04:00get thee to Portland<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/7711534332/" title="susie-at-land by primrose design, on Flickr"><img alt="susie-at-land" height="349" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8434/7711534332_f2f079bc1d_o.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I first became aware of Susie Ghahremani's illustration work when I was an art director—I think she may have sent a postcard in hopes that I'd find an assignment for her in the magazine I worked for. I very much regret that that didn't happen because we might have become friends sooner than we did. We met again a few years later through her online business Boy Girl Party. She's an award-winning artist from San Diego, CA whose work combines joyful imagery with highly intricate hand-painted patterns. Her love of nature, music, and textiles come together in each painting and illustration, delivered with the detail and soul of a crafter. You can read more about her at <a href="http://www.boygirlparty.com/land/index.html">boygirlparty.com</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">So, why am I writing about an illustrator on a blog about needlework? Because she's going to be offering embroidery patterns based on some of her drawings, that's why. For now the very limited edition patterns are only available for purchase at her shows. And there's one coming up next weekend!</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/7699849232/"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img alt="susie ghahremani dodobird" height="613" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8028/7699849232_5cdf0a2af5_o.jpg" width="450" /></span></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Susie's agreed to take a few minutes out of her busy schedule to answer a few questions for us about the show and the patterns, some of which you'll see illustrating this post.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Tell us about your upcoming show.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The show is titled "Clear Skies and Cloudy Days" and it runs from August 10th - September 2nd at Land Gallery in Portland, OR. It includes more than 100 of my latest works—paintings, drawings and mixed media such as cross-stitch. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I'll be flying up to Portland this week for the opening reception on Friday from 6-9 pm. Land Gallery, located in the historic Mississippi neighborhood, is run by the owners of the iconic indie shopping website buyolympia.com and features new, original artwork from a fantastic stable of upcoming and established independent artists.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">(Land Gallery, 3925 N. Mississippi Ave., Portland, OR 97227 (503) 451-0689)</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/7711536244/" title="woolly mammoth pattern by primrose design, on Flickr"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img alt="woolly mammoth pattern" height="609" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8423/7711536244_f1d3a33478_o.jpg" width="450" /></span></a><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">What inspired you to do embroidery patterns (a great idea, by the way)?</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Thanks! Years ago, I used to host craft nights at my house with my girlfriends, and my friend Irene Stone (http://irenejoy.etsy.com) would always bring over her cross-stitch projects (based on incredible patterns she would make herself). Watching her work on them (and being the lucky recipient of some of her handiwork!), I thought to myself how it's a nearly extinct craft, and how I'd enjoy the irony of bringing extinct animals to life with that medium. I asked her if she'd want to collaborate on a series just for fun (my drawings, her stitching) and that's how it began! At first we only did a dodo bird, sabre toothed tiger and woolly mammoth (which are the first three patterns we're releasing) but now (two years later) we have more than 20 x-stitch-extinct animals in the works, ten of which Irene has stitched already.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">After we collaborated on a few of the finished pieces, we decided it would be fun to share the patterns with others so they could reach a wider audience.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">At the Portland show, I'll be showing all the drawings from this project and 10 of the finished cross-stitched pieces in addition to over 100 other paintings and drawings by me.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>And the patterns are part of a kit; what’s included in that?</b> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Basic instructions, an easy-to-follow color-based pattern printed in large format, neatly wound spools of the necessary embroidery floss, and a license for personal use of the pattern. Each sells for $14.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>I first saw a picture of the dodo pattern on your Facebook page (and loved it so much that I knew I had to write about it). What are the other endangered animals?</b> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The kits include just the Dodo, Sabre Toothed Tiger, and Woolly Mammoth. But the finished pieces include the Baiji Dolphin (two versions), Boobook Owl, T-Rex, Thylacine, Great Auk, and Short Faced Bear. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">People can pick up the EXTREMELY limited edition patterns at the show or by contacting the gallery directly; the drawings and the finished cross stitched pieces will also be for sale.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Thanks, Susie! She tells me that she’d like to eventually offer the patterns for sale on her website and has promised to let me know so I can pass along that info to you. For now, you’ll need to get yourself to this show if you’re in driving distance of Portland. I so wish it wasn't a week-long road trip for me :)</span>janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-42696547024373814482012-05-22T08:00:00.000-04:002016-07-01T08:39:37.639-04:00who doesn't love puppies?<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/7241240814/" title="scotties by primrose design, on Flickr"><img alt="scotties towel" height="350" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8150/7241240814_135080a047.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I found this sweet peach-colored linen towel recently at an antique mall. The bottom edge features two dogs (Scotties, maybe) embroidered in brown and white using very small cross stitches—almost, but not quite, petit point.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">You can probably figure out the design yourself—it's pretty simple—but I made it into a charted pattern for you. Click through to the Flickr page for a larger version.</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/7241250720/" title="scotty_puppies by primrose design, on Flickr"><img alt="scotty_puppies" height="199" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7221/7241250720_b15a5ccae1.jpg" width="450" /></a>janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-86135312486808994982012-05-20T09:09:00.000-04:002016-07-01T08:40:18.355-04:00embroidery exhibit<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If you live in Pennsylvania you might want to check out a new exhibit at the Allentown Art Museum of the Lehigh Valley. Opening today and running through the end of August, the exhibit is titled <a href="http://www.allentownartmuseum.org/exhibition/flora-fauna-needlework-landscapes">"Flora and Fauna: Needlework Landscapes,"</a> and features the Embroiderer's Guild of America (EGA) <i>America the Beautiful</i> tapestry, a five-panel tapestry with plants, birds, and animals.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Also shown will be the original <i>Redwork Coverlet</i> (circa 1895) as well as a reproduction sewn by the Lehigh Valley chapter of the EGA, that will be raffled off on the last day of the exhibit. Both versions feature 64 redwork blocks embellished with red feather stitching.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Accompanying these main items will be needlework featuring landscape and nature themes from the museum's permanent collection, including 18th and 19th century textiles, embroidered kimonos, and Victorian era silks and towels.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is just a few hours drive for me so I'm going to try to make it there some time in the next couple of months. I'll report back!<br />
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<i><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Allentown Art Museum of the Lehigh Valley, 31 North 5th Street, Allentown, PA 18101 (610) 432-4333. Hours are Tuesday-Saturday 11-5, Sunday 12-5. Admission $12</span></i><br />
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janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-59128025549907807972012-05-19T09:36:00.001-04:002016-07-01T08:41:05.187-04:00alternate (or double) stem stitch<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">One of my readers emailed me to ask about a stitch called double stem stitch. And I checked all my embroidery books and didn't come up with anything. But many stitches are called by different names depending on where they originated and are used, so I think I may have found it but named alternate stem stitch. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">So, as a quick refresher, <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2009/12/stitch-school-stem-and-outline-stitch.html">stem and outline</a> stitches are done the same way except that stem stitch holds the thread below the needle (diagrams 1 and 2) and outline above (3). Alternate stem stitch is going to use both of these methods combined.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Work along a line as for stem stitch but, instead of holding the thread below the needle for every stitch, hold it alternately <i>below</i> for the first stitch (ABC), <i>above</i> for the second (CDB), <i>below</i> for the third (EGF) and so on. See the first diagram (4).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img src="https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3551/3343486597_448cfb42a5_o.jpg" /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The second diagram (5) shows what happens when you work two rows closely together. Start the second row at "a", holding the thread above for the first stitch, below for the second, etc.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Diagrams from <i>Stitches with Variations: A Handbook of Basic Stitches</i> by Jacqueline Enthoven. ©1976 Sunset Designs. Many thanks to Patricia in NJ (my 'personal shopper') for sending me the book!</span>janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-78624515707544831762011-09-10T09:56:00.000-04:002016-07-01T08:41:40.425-04:00floral monograms<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/6133067094/"><img alt="small floral monograms" height="190" src="https://farm7.static.flickr.com/6182/6133067136_6a29e10ee8_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I found a very old embroidery booklet at an antique mall during the summer—Alphabets and Monograms by Anne Orr. Sixteen pages of designs, some of which have floral details like the one shown here. I've been redoing the designs into modern charts with the hope of reproducing the booklet. Not quite ready yet but I thought I'd share one of the designs with you.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I'm slightly embarrassed that I haven't posted anything since April - yikes! But I've been so busy with my business this summer that I haven't had time to post. So, the free monogram chart is my way of making it up to you (click through the small chart detail above to my Flickr page where you'll find a large size chart of the entire alphabet). Enjoy!</span>janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-72692720040697516572011-04-29T14:53:00.000-04:002016-07-01T08:42:07.196-04:00an easy (really) crochet edging<img alt="crochet_closeup" height="300" src="https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5228/5670462350_1023a5d318_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I have several stamped-for-embroidery pillowcases that already have the holes along the edge for attaching crochet. I just never knew how to go about attaching it. Well, I sort of knew but, having never crocheted before and finding most instructions daunting, I've never even tried.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">But, there may be hope for me yet. Kathleen Mower, on her blog Miss Abigail's Hope Chest, has a <a href="http://missabigailshopechest.blogspot.com/2011/04/tutorial-easy-zig-zag-crocheted-edging.html">tutorial</a> for an easy zig-zag crocheted edging that might be the perfect thing to finish my project. Perhaps yours, too. She added hers to a towel (and it took just 30 minutes!), but it should work equally well for pillowcases. If you want to try this, she suggests skipping over some of the holes, choosing ones that are spaced about 3/8-inch apart; otherwise there won't be enough room for the little diamond shapes.</span>janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-68791509159636376952011-04-10T10:57:00.000-04:002016-07-01T08:43:23.938-04:00Book Review: Embroidered Flora & Fauna<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/5605670653/" title="Embroidered Flora & Fauna by primrose design, on Flickr"><img alt="Embroidered Flora & Fauna" height="538" src="https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5301/5605670653_0117dc0a14_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="https://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?t=stitscho-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=184448341X&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">This lovely book was first published in 2007 in South Africa, again in Great Britain in 2008, and reprinted twice more in 2009. Which tells you something of it's popularity with lovers of needlework. And the projects are simply stunning. You'll get plenty of basics as to techniques and materials, too, but it's probably not for the beginning embroiderer. Think of it as a next step when you feel the need to add some dimension and texture to your work.</span><br />
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<img align="right" alt="000379" height="160" hspace="9" src="https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5021/5605807297_402c57372f_o.jpg" width="200" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">And three-dimension and texture are what this book is all about. Techniques include fabric manipulation, wire-edged applique, barbola (unwired stumpwork), needle lace on wire, trapunto quilting, working with felt and ribbon, beading, and metallic threads. Used together as mixed media, which you'll see in the projects that follow, they provide endless ways of creating realistic flora and fauna.</span><br />
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<img align="left" height="200" hspace="9" src="https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4107/5605807371_f43cd7872a_o.jpg" width="200" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The projects, which are all inspired by the natural world, are categorized by color inspiration. Red, for example, features projects for three-dimensional felt gerbera daisies and wired applique bougainvilla; green has a nesting weaver bird incorporating actual feathers and a praying mantis that uses organza ribbon for his transparent wing. There are flowers, butterflies, insects, and birds and even a project for a realistic fig made from felt, yarn and beads (see the book cover for a close-up of this). All projects are illustrated with gorgeous photos of the finished piece and many have close-up views as well so you can really see the fine detail.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The book finishes with a section of black-and-white stitch diagrams and patterns for the projects that require them.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I found my copy at my local fabric store but it's also available on Amazon (and if you want to purchase a copy, please click through the link included above).</span><br />
<a href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blogger.com%2Fblogger.g%3FblogID%3D7752547076410097674%23editor%2Ftarget%3Dpost%3BpostID%3D6879150915963637695&media=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com%2Fgadgets%2Fproxy%3Furl%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Ffarm6.static.flickr.com%252F5301%252F5605670653_0117dc0a14_o.jpg%26container%3Dblogger%26gadget%3Da%26rewriteMime%3Dimage%252F*&xm=h&xv=sa1.37.01&xuid=o6nbfP7XeBr5&description=Embroidered%20Flora%20%26%20Fauna" style="background-color: transparent; background-image: url(data:image/png; border: none; cursor: pointer; display: none; height: 20px; left: 26px; opacity: 0.85; position: absolute; top: 18px; width: 40px; z-index: 8675309;"></a><a href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blogger.com%2Fblogger.g%3FblogID%3D7752547076410097674%23editor%2Ftarget%3Dpost%3BpostID%3D6879150915963637695&media=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com%2Fgadgets%2Fproxy%3Furl%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Ffarm6.static.flickr.com%252F5301%252F5605670653_0117dc0a14_o.jpg%26container%3Dblogger%26gadget%3Da%26rewriteMime%3Dimage%252F*&xm=h&xv=sa1.37.01&xuid=o6nbfP7XeBr5&description=Embroidered%20Flora%20%26%20Fauna" style="background-color: transparent; background-image: url(data:image/png; border: none; cursor: pointer; display: none; height: 20px; left: 26px; opacity: 0.85; position: absolute; top: 18px; width: 40px; z-index: 8675309;"></a>janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-72113646387589102802010-11-22T13:12:00.000-05:002016-07-01T08:43:49.351-04:00at least she had time to finish her project<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This was published today in the Rochester, MN Post-Bulletin:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A St. Charles woman was sentenced to 30 days in jail by Judge Burt Eaton for stealing 20 cents worth of embroidery floss.<br />
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">According to the Consumer Price Index, that's $3.13 in today's prices. Just an interesting bit of embroidery-related news to brighten your day :)</span><br />
janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-64435478741009045562010-10-20T09:00:00.002-04:002010-10-20T14:25:50.268-04:00embroidering on ginghamGingham can be a great fabric to embroider on, and not just for working chicken scratch. It's already got a perfectly square grid so any patterns designed for cross stitch will work equally well on it. Use the corners of each small square (or skip over a few if the squares are very small) for your needle entry and exit holes.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/5097015076/" title="rooster aprons by primrose design, on Flickr"><img alt="rooster aprons" height="338" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/5097015076_52d88177db_o.jpg" width="450" /></a> <br />
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I found these two aprons recently at an antique mall—one pink gingham, the other yellow. Both have a row of brown and red chickens along the bottom. I'm including the pattern here — it's been a while since we've had a freebie! Enjoy!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/5084096258/"><img alt="Roosters" height="221" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/5084096258_80c9344fe1_o.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Click the pattern image for a larger version.</span></i>janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-535812707980953882010-10-19T10:42:00.001-04:002010-10-19T10:45:09.020-04:00redesignCross stitch sometimes gets a bad rap, especially here in the U.S., with the predominance of cutesy kits in craft stores and overly sweet projects in magazines. There's the exception to be sure, but in general, I haven't been impressed with what I've seen.<br />
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So, I was happy to be asked to review the redesign of Cross Stitcher magazine. My big concern, since this is a British magazine, was whether we could buy it here in the U.S. They assured me that it's available in some Borders stores (although, sadly, not in mine) and also by <a href="http://www.myfavouritemagazines.co.uk/stitch-craft/crossstitcher-magazine-subscription/?gclid=CKXlgeSP36QCFY5a7AodhWhAKw">subscription</a> for £79.99. Or you can purchase digital editions— <a href="http://gb.zinio.com/browse/publications/single-issues.jsp?productId=500255923&rf=futsrc&pss=1">single issues</a> for £6.70 and a 13-issue <a href="https://gb.zinio.com/checkout/publisher/index.jsp?productId=500255923&offer=500102149&bd=1&rf=futsrc">subscription</a> for £60. But, with the exchange rate currently not in our favor, the best deal is at <a href="http://www.magazinenook.com/1229-cross-stitcher.html?gclid=CJyvxuqL36QCFYXs7QodNhCFJg">Magazine Nook</a> for $23.39 with free shipping. If you're located in the UK, of course, you shouldn't have problems finding it on the newsstand. The redesign debuts with the current issue (Issue 232 November 2010).<br />
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<a href="http://www.crossstitchermagazine.co.uk/"><img alt="CrossStitcher Magazine" height="552" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/5083434239_cd57d69c27_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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I'm still awaiting my printed issue to arrive by mail but I got a chance to preview an <a href="http://www.zinio.com/reader.jsp?issn=futurecrossstitcher&o=ext">online sample</a>. I'm impressed, both with the colorful and fun design of the magazine and with the projects. The magazine opens with a free chart for embroidering gingham heart sachets (each issue includes a free project pattern). Following are lots more fun projects—like felt baby booties (so cute), a realistic Jack Russell cushion, covered buttons, the ever-popular owls, and designs for Christmas cards. Every issue has a section called The Savvy Stitcher—this time it features applique, using Bondaweb, stitching basics, and alphabet charts for personalizing your projects.<br />
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<a href="http://www.crossstitchermagazine.co.uk/"><img alt="Savvy Stitcher" height="283" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4125/5083434275_f6f869886d_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Be sure to visit their <a href="http://www.crossstitchermagazine.co.uk/">website</a>, sign up to receive their <a href="http://communicatoremail.com/IN/DCF/Q_nIideJyLmN6IpxohILOV/">newsletter</a>, and become a fan on <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/CrossStitcher-Magazine/23413652687">Facebook</a>. They offer lots of freebies on all of these and a chance to interact with other readers and stitching fans.janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-35348006467291013272010-09-23T17:44:00.000-04:002010-09-23T17:44:39.180-04:00reading patternsStamped-for-embroidery projects originally came with a printed sheet that had color suggestions and instructions for which stitches to use to complete the design. Or, if you purchased your project at a department store, it came with a free booklet of instructions for <i>all</i> of that season's designs. This is what the <i>Vogart</i> Fall 1957 booklet looked like—<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/5018061831/"><img alt="Vogart Embroidery Color Charts Fall 1957" height="297" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4086/5018061831_0ca4cb907f.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/5018666144/"><img alt="Page 13" height="297" hspace="12" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4087/5018666144_fcbb143083.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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That's great but, it's fifty years later. What if you find a vintage piece, and the instruction sheet has been lost, or there's no accompanying booklet? Color is personal and you'll have your own preferences—we'll save that subject for a future post. Let's talk about the stitches.<br />
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Here are a couple of pieces from my collection that I haven't started yet (click through to the larger versions on my Flickr page if you need to see them larger). The designs are printed on the fabric surface and will almost always wash out after the embroidery is completed. Let's look at some of the standard "symbols".<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/5018530456/"><img alt="rooster pattern" height="400" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/5018530456_a9090847af.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/5017925727/"><img alt="cat pattern" height="533" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/5017925727_3e9b54e7cf.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<b>A-</b> All of the outlines in a design can be done in either <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2009/12/stitch-school-stem-and-outline-stitch.html">stem or outline stitch</a>. You <i>could</i> use any stitch with a continuous line—like chain or split stitch—as long as it's not too wide. You want to cover the line but not intrude too much on the space around it.<br />
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<b>B-</b> Any straight line that is less than 1/2 inch or so should be done in <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2010/01/straight-stitch.html">straight stitch</a>. Anything longer and you run the risk of the thread lying too loosely on the surface. And that can lead to snagging.<br />
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<b>C-</b> Leaves and flower petals are always done in <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2009/12/stitch-school-lazy-daisy.html">detached chain stitch</a>, commonly called lazy daisy.<br />
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<b>D-</b> When you see a shape with a series of lines across it, this tells you to use <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2010/01/satin-stitch.html">satin stitch</a>. Or, you can simply outline the shape and just go over the crossed lines with straight stitch. You'll see this used for facial features, such as the eyes, noses, beaks, and tongues of animals.<br />
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<b>E-</b> Little crosses symbolize <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2009/12/stitch-school-cross-stitch.html">cross stitch</a>. There aren't any in the first example but there are lots in the second. You'll want to bring your needle up and down in a space halfway between the printed ends of the crosses; sometimes they're printed with a bit of space in between and you want to cover the printing completely in case it doesn't wash out.<br />
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<b>F-</b> Little open circles mean <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2010/01/french-knot.html">French knots</a>. Commonly used for flower centers, random polka dots on clothing, and for making lambs look wooly.<br />
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That's about it. Don't feel that you need to learn all the advanced stitches to get started with embroidery. Most designs will use only these five or six stitches; some even less. Advanced stitches are nice when you're ready to add to your repertoire, but certainly not needed for most of your projects.<br />
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Having said that, you could try <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2010/01/flytwisted-fly-stitch.html">fly stitch</a> for the Vs on the roosters neck or <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2009/12/blanket-stitch.html">blanket stitch</a> instead of the straight and outline stitches along his feathers and comb. The yarn ball in the kitten design could be done in a stitch with more dimension to make it fuzzier. Don't be afraid to try something different!janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-60005381944926102832010-09-16T10:22:00.001-04:002010-09-16T10:23:14.066-04:00color your worldIn the premiere issue of <a href="http://www.amy-powers.com/">Amy Powers' Inspired Ideas</a>, Piper Wise shows how to add color to embroidery, a technique she learned from her husband's aunt. She uses the duck design from my <a href="http://www.primrosedesign.com/VP119.html">Party Animals</a> pattern to create a motif on a little girls dress.<br />
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You may have seen some of the vintage <i>Vogart</i> stamped-for-embroidery projects with colored areas already printed within the design. Here are a few examples:<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/4995484659/"><img alt="flower girl" height="364" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4092/4995484659_9054c5f680.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/4995484643/" title="serenade by primrose design, on Flickr"><img alt="serenade" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4154/4995484643_85e4fed8f6.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
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Using Piper's technique you can mimic this effect yourself. Another way to add color is to use acrylic paints. Acrylic paints are plastic-based so the paint fuses with the fabric and becomes water-resistant when dry. The nice thing about acrylics is that you can dilute them with water if you want a softer, more watercolor-like effect.<br />
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Generally, with stamped embroidery projects, you embroider the outlines of shapes; adding color helps to fill in some of the empty spaces in your design.janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-24448777440741011712010-09-15T14:07:00.000-04:002010-09-15T14:07:06.835-04:00embroidery in the newsA few interesting embroidery-related articles for your reading pleasure—<br />
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<a href="http://www.fastcodesign.com/1662286/whimsical-pillows-embroideredby-convicts">Whimsical Pillows Embroidered ... by Convicts</a><br />
<a href="http://www.frontline.in/stories/20100924271908700.htm">Stitch in Time: The embroidery of the Ahirs of Kutch</a><br />
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Sorry for the lack of posting since July (yikes, it's a wonder anyone is still reading). I've been busy this summer and not doing much embroidery myself—I rarely do when it's hot outdoors. But, as the weather gets cooler I find myself turning back to it again. I'll try to be better about posting again.janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-59365392007176657292010-07-06T09:20:00.000-04:002010-07-06T09:20:37.059-04:00cross stitch trimsToday's patterns are courtesy of Sandro Ilg who lives in Berne, Switzerland. Sandro is a recovering English literature major who decided that wasn't the career for him and now plans to study fashion design instead. He sews and loves to shop for thrift store goodies—clothing, fabric, trims, and buttons. Especially buttons, which he admits he has an addiction to (me, too). Like we couldn't tell from the name of his blog, <a href="http://teppichkind.twoday.net/">Mr. Buttons</a> :)<br />
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Sandro found these vintage trims while thrifting and asked if I could turn them into charted patterns to share with my Stitch School readers. Of course!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/4763508221/"><img alt="original trims" height="300" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4763508221_7b96435b5c_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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The original trims are embroidered on white linen that's been hemmed top and bottom. I'd probably embroider them directly on a finished item rather than on something that needs to be attached. But, that will depend on your project. The flowers would be cute for a little girl's dress; the cherries for an apron, tea towel, or how about a row along the bottom of curtains in a cherry-themed kitchen?<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/4764146544/"><img alt="cherry pattern" height="306" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4764146544_1cddf35989_b.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
(Click through for a larger version)<br />
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The only change I made is to add a few yellow crosses in the center of the flower—it seemed to need something there but you can leave it out if you like. Done in a medium purple-blue colored floss, they look very much like a flower we call periwinkle or vinca. Use whatever colors you like. Try brown centers with a yellow flower (like black-eyed Susans).<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/4763508975/"><img alt="flower pattern" height="255" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4763508975_07e2b7f72c_b.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
(Click through for a larger version)<br />
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Thanks Sandro for sharing your treasures. If anyone else has a vintage hand-embroidered item they'd like to share, let me know. I'd be happy to convert it for you. And I'm always happy to post photos of your finished embroidery projects as inspiration for others. Let's spread the embroidery love!janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-11678071791764240352010-06-28T11:26:00.001-04:002010-06-28T11:29:31.245-04:00eat your veggiesOr, maybe I should say, embroider them :)<br />
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If you're also a reader of my <a href="http://primrosedesign.blogspot.com/2010/06/peas-and-carrots.html">Primrose Design blog</a> you may have seen that I'm working on quilted patchwork pot holders with food themes. I've run out of vintage linens to cut up so I'm embroidering some of the motifs myself. Today I showed some examples of peas and carrots that I found originally on a vintage apron; there was a yellow squash, too. And I decided to offer the patterns for free here at Stitch School in case you'd like to try them for yourself.<br />
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Each of the designs would be super cute on aprons as they appeared originally or perhaps on tea towels or framed pictures on your kitchen wall. All are super easy and shouldn't take more than an hour. No need to trace these onto to your fabric—just count the stitches for your cross stitch and do them first, then go back and freehand draw the stem/outline stitched parts. I used an even-weave linen/cotton blend (from an old tea towel) but you could use Aida if you like.<br />
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Click each photo for a larger version on my Flickr page.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/4742036413/" title="peas embroidery by primrose design, on Flickr"><img alt="peas embroidery" height="750" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4742036413_8519838ab7_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/4742674510/" title="peas pattern by primrose design, on Flickr"><img alt="peas pattern" height="900" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4742674510_01f7a444f2_b.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/4742036491/" title="carrot embroidery by primrose design, on Flickr"><img alt="carrot embroidery" height="315" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4742036491_29c44699c2_b.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/4742036669/" title="carrot pattern by primrose design, on Flickr"><img alt="carrot pattern" height="320" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4742036669_f6f05f7bc9_b.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/4742674122/" title="yellow squash embroidery by primrose design, on Flickr"><img alt="yellow squash embroidery" height="334" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4742674122_65f557dc92_b.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/4742674612/" title="yellow squash pattern by primrose design, on Flickr"><img alt="yellow squash pattern" height="320" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4742674612_57ea83b3b1_b.jpg" width="400" /></a>janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-63781269836433179722010-06-08T14:58:00.000-04:002010-06-08T14:58:50.478-04:00move completedYou're probably wondering why all the posts today. I'd been putting off completing the move of all Stitch School posts from the Primrose Design blog, but decided to devote the necessary few hours to getting it done today. And I did it. If you go to the original posts you'll be directed here, so I guess that means we're all moved in! There might be a few missing items here and there but I'll be checking for problems over the next few days. Then it's time for some new stitches!janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-31386701779522301842010-06-08T14:10:00.000-04:002010-06-08T14:10:02.688-04:00Woven Filling StitchThe <b>woven filling stitch</b>, also called <i>Queen Anne stitch</i> is really more of a technique than a stitch. It starts with a series of parallel straight lines done in straight stitch and then the thread is woven back through to form a basketweave texture. I have a couple of stamped-for-embroidery projects with baskets of flowers and I'm going to try this technique to complete them. It really does look just like a basket!<br />
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I used a coarser linen for this because I found it easier to keep the weave even by counting threads. You could mark your fabic first or do it by eye—if it's not absolutely perfect it will look like a rustic basket :)<br />
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First make a series of vertical straight stitches, close together but not too close. You'll need enough space between the lines to do your weaving. And use all six strands of embroidery floss for a fuller effect.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/358591177/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="woven1" height="400" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/144/358591177_dbb0542a72_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Bring your needle to the front just to the right of the last vertical line and very close to the top.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/358591171/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="woven2" height="400" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/138/358591171_15cc042daf_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Now weave your thread over the last vertical stitch and under the stitch next to it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/358584797/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="woven3" height="400" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/131/358584797_f8e1c63119_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Continue weaving under and over the stitches, taking the needle to the back just to the left of the first vertical stitch and level with the line of weaving.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/358584784/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="woven4" height="400" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/159/358584784_098c749ce1_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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After pulling your thread through bring your needle to the front just below (I counted three holes) where your thread emerged. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/358584761/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="woven5" height="400" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/140/358584761_82b2e262bd_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Now start back, weaving from from left to right and working under and over the opposite threads from last time.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/358584771/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="woven6" height="400" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/148/358584771_739e329c2c_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Keep going back and forth, going down at the end of a row and up again to start the next. I found that it helped to use the needle to pack the threads in tight against the previous row, like you'd use a shuttle for actual weaving.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/358584756/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="woven7" height="400" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/142/358584756_a20363a238_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Here's what it looks like finished. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/358584751/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="woven8" height="400" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/151/358584751_f7dc85e0ca_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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I love the texture of this and can't wait to try it on an actual project. Because each row is secured by taking the thread to the back, you can see how easy it would be to have this conform to an irregular shape—like a basket with curved sides.janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-89457762107286181052010-06-08T14:07:00.000-04:002010-06-08T14:07:06.345-04:00Wheatear StitchThe <b>wheatear stitch</b>, which resembles a sheaf of wheat when finished, is usually worked in a short, straight line. Drawing a vertical line on your fabric will help you to keep it even and, instead of working sideways as we usually do, we'll do this one working from top to bottom. As with most stitches, you can vary the appearance by lengthening or shortening the "ears" or by varying their placement. <br />
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We'll use gold thread to get the full wheaty effect, but this would also be pretty for a border in other colors, too. Bring your thread to the front to the left of the top of your drawn line. Then take the needle to the back <i>on</i> the line and about 1/4 inch down towards you. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/350754791/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="wheat_1" height="300" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/128/350754791_f29cd6ef2e_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Pull the thread through and come up again 1/4 inch to the right of the drawn line, directly opposite the first stitch. Take the needle to the back using the same hole as your first stitch.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/350754200/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="wheat_2" height="300" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/165/350754200_63490dab6d_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Pull the thread through, forming a V shape. Come up again on the line about 1/4 inch below the bottom of the V.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/350754199/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="wheat_3" height="300" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/128/350754199_14b33776b7_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Slide your needle from right to left behind the previous two stitches at the base of the V, being careful not to pierce the fabric.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/350754197/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="wheat_4" height="300" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/152/350754197_55a965cb48_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Take your needle to the back again using the same hole in the fabric and forming a loop under the point of the V. Pull your thread through and bring the needle up to the left of the loop and in line with the beginning of the first stitch above it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/350754196/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="wheat_5" height="300" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/166/350754196_e9bb4ffef5_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Repeat, using the hole at the base of the V for the end of each stitch and looping your thread through each time.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/350754194/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="wheat_6" height="300" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/125/350754194_bdd392cf5e_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Continue working down the line and take a stitch to the back at the base of the final V. Here's what it looks like finished. Cool, huh?<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/350754191/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="wheat_7" height="767" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/128/350754191_b1ee70364c_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Try this with a V that's less wide if you want a more compact-looking wheat sheaf—the loops and side pieces blend together more.janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-57341837858505206302010-06-08T14:01:00.001-04:002010-06-08T14:01:51.865-04:00Vandyke StitchThe <b>Vandyke stitch</b> is another of the braided-center stitches. It's traditionally used as a border (and I'll show it done this way) but could easily be adapted to fill leaf shapes by varying the width as we did <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2010/01/fishbone-stitch.html">here</a> and <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2010/03/tutorial-raised-fishbone-stitch.html">here</a>.<br />
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We'll be starting with a cross stitch that's narrow at the top and wider across the bottom. Draw some guidelines to help keep your stitches straight if you like. Start by bringing your needle up on the left outer line then take a small stitch from right to left directly above it (needle down on fourth line and up on second).<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/204/444787377_15ed75d26a_o.jpg" /><br />
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Pull the thread through, then take a diagonal stitch from the right line back to the left line directly underneath and slightly below the beginning of the first half of the cross.<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/171/444787381_64a19bf2d6_o.jpg" /><br />
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You can see the finished cross a little better in this picture. Now slide your needle behind the crossed threads being careful not to pierce the fabric. <br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/240/444787391_6a92590e31_o.jpg" /><br />
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Pull your thread through and this will be the beginning of your second cross. Take another diagonal stitch from the right line to the left slightly below the previous cross. <br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/250/444787393_e885fea7b9_o.jpg" /><br />
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Pass your needle underneath but this time be careful that you only go under the previous stitches and that you don't catch any threads from the stitch above it. It makes quite a mess if you do. It may be a good idea to work this stitch with a tapestry needle—it's blunt tip will make this part easier.<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/182/444787395_bba00958fa_o.jpg" /><br />
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Continue making crosses and passing your thread behind them until you've completed your length of stitching. When you come to the end take your thread to the back at the bottom right of the last cross.<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/252/444787399_8b4a4c28e5_o.jpg" /><br />
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It's really pretty easy although the fabric I used (cotton toweling) was a bit too soft for this stitch. I found it very hard to keep the tension right so my center braid and outer edges (even following the guidelines) are not perfectly straight. As with most of these more complicated stitches, they take a bit of practice before they feel comfortable. And, in this case, a stiffer fabric.janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-17187210270046891252010-06-08T13:56:00.001-04:002010-06-08T13:57:04.080-04:00Up and Down Buttonhole StitchThis is a variation on the standard <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2009/12/blanket-stitch.html">buttonhole</a> stitch (which I called blanket stitch—same thing). There are actually quite a few variations (who knew?) and I'll try to show you some of them in the coming months. Here's the diagram from <i>One Hundred Embroidery Stitches</i> (yes, the second diagram is upside down. I should mention that you can hold your work any way you want—sometimes its easier holding it sideways or upside down—do what works best for you): <br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/212/508075922_149b6d9106_o.jpg" /><br />
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And now to the photos. Begin on the bottom line as for regular buttonhole stitch and pull the thread through. <br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/192/508075964_7952401898_o.jpg" /><br />
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Holding the thread with your left thumb, insert your needle on the bottom line and take a stitch straight up and alongside the previous stitch.<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/232/508075968_e011729557_o.jpg" /><br />
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Pull the thread through in an upward motion. You'll see the little loop at the bottom tightens to hold the stitch. Take your thread back down through that little loop. <br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/225/508075982_f60b03ee30_o.jpg" /><br />
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Repeat, and continue along until you've completed your length. Take your thread to the back and finish off.<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/231/508075992_c806e322ed_o.jpg" /><br />
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Here's what it looks like when complete. If you look at this upside down it looks like little tassels—that might be handy for something in the future.<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/190/508076000_afa0e574b3_o.jpg" />janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-9042457975029500402010-06-08T13:51:00.001-04:002010-06-08T13:53:06.716-04:00Twisted Chain Stitch<b>Twisted chain stitch</b> is a variation of the basic chain stitch that we learned earlier (see <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2009/12/stitch-school-lazy-daisy.html">Lazy Daisy</a> which is really a detached chain stitch). You work it the same way except for one slight difference and that difference makes the chain twist and form a rope-like chain. The closer together you work the stitches the more texture you'll get. I worked them spaced apart so you can more easily see what to do.<br />
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Here's regular chain:<br />
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<img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1164/541191819_7ae74d1827_o.jpg" /><br />
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And here's the twisted variation. Can you see the difference?<br />
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<img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1044/541067620_4e494115cd_o.jpg" /><br />
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Begin as you would for chain stitch by bringing your thread to the front. Now, instead of inserting your needle into the same hole where your thread emerged, insert it slightly to the left. Take a small slanting stitch and come up on the drawn line. Your thread loops over and then under the needle.<br />
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<img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1101/541250513_2bffcdf94b_o.jpg" /><br />
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Pull the thread through until it tightens and the loop rests on the emerging thread. This is the first link in the chain.<br />
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<img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1335/541250517_b435b1a659_o.jpg" /><br />
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To begin the second link, take the needle from just <i>outside</i> the loop down to the drawn line. Again, keep your thread under the needle or it won't twist. With regular chain stitch you would take your needle down <i>inside</i> the loop not outside of it—that's the difference.<br />
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<img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1045/541250523_ca7a83d10f_o.jpg" /><br />
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Continue making links in the chain and when you come to the end take a small stitch to tack the last loop down.<br />
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<img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1328/541250529_79103b47a5_o.jpg" /><br />
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Here's a side view. Remember that it's OK to hold your work in any direction that works for you. I started this working top to bottom like it was shown in my book but quickly switched to working from right to left. Much easier. <br />
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<img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1423/541250539_2bb894c9b5_o.jpg" /><br />
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The finished twisted chain: <br />
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<img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1355/541250541_9a02647e85_o.jpg" /><br />
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There are quite a few chain stitch variations so I'll probably show you more in the future.janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-7540798182453713002010-06-08T13:46:00.000-04:002010-06-08T13:46:53.725-04:00Split Stitch<b>Split stitch</b> is another stitch that is useful for outlining. I learned recently that this stitch was used extensively in the Middle Ages for embroidering faces because it lends itself to subtle shading when it's worked in rows as a filling stitch. It's also sometimes called Kensington outline stitch. Here's how you do it. <br />
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Bring your thread to the front, then take the needle to the back about 1/8 inch away.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/265369796/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="split_1" height="327" src="http://static.flickr.com/115/265369796_ec0df9c5c9_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Pull the thread through, then bring your needle up in the center of the first stitch, splitting the thread with the needle. This will work best if you use an even number of strands of embroidery floss. I used 4 but you could use 2 for a fine line or 6 for a heavier one. Pull the thread through to complete the first stitch and begin the second.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/265369794/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="split_2" height="327" src="http://static.flickr.com/79/265369794_6e9ba5d5f5_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Again, take the needle to the back 1/8 inch away. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/265369790/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="split_3" height="327" src="http://static.flickr.com/117/265369790_0146a460c7_o.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
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Pull the thread through and emerge in the center of the second stitch. Continue working your stitches in the same manner. Hide the thread at the back when you're finished with the line.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/265369787/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="split_4" height="327" src="http://static.flickr.com/97/265369787_f5193e6b2c_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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This is the first time I've done this stitch and I found it very awkward. My line looked better as I went along, but I still think it looks too much like chain stitch. And I don't think it's supposed to. So I think I need to practice this one a bit more. I'll revise these directions and pictures if I come up with an easier way to do it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/265369784/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="split_5" height="327" src="http://static.flickr.com/111/265369784_e537f11064_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Last week I showed you how to do satin stitch with a drawn line. Another way to do it, and one that maintains a sharper line, is to outline your shape first with split stitch. Then work over the top of it, taking your thread over the outline so you're covering it completely, and angling your needle slightly towards the center. Like this—<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/primrose_design/265369781/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="split_6" height="327" src="http://static.flickr.com/110/265369781_200b2f765d_o.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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I usually show examples from vintage linens that I own but I couldn't find any that used this stitch. Split stitch is not something you see that often and I'm not sure why. Maybe because it's underneath all the satin stitch :)janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7752547076410097674.post-13255912845147131102010-06-08T13:43:00.000-04:002010-06-08T13:43:15.037-04:00Spider WebThe <b>spider web filling stitch</b> is another stitch from my 1964 Coats & Clarks booklet <i>One Hundred Embroidery Stitches</i>. It's also shown in another of my embroidery books but done with ribbon instead of thread and it resembles a rose much more than a spider web. So feel free to experiment with the material you weave through—it doesn't have to be the same as the base threads, which will be completely covered by the time you finish.<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/192/488760309_250cd54d6d_o.jpg" /><br />
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Start by drawing a small circle on your fabric—mine is about the size of a quarter. Mark the center and five evenly-spaced points around the outside edge. Bring your thread up in the center.<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/200/488712140_8f34d6575e_o.jpg" /><br />
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Take five straight stitches from the center out to each of the five points that you marked. Bring your thread up again in the center in between two of the "spokes". <br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/228/488712148_b063c372bf_o.jpg" /><br />
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Without going through the fabric, weave the thread under and over the five straight stitches, making sure to alternate between spokes.<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/220/488712150_ffccf87355_o.jpg" /> <br />
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Because you're working with an uneven number of spokes, the next time you come around the circle you'll be doing the opposite of what you did before, so each spoke will alternate under and over. As you go around, guide the thread around the previous one with your thumb. You can keep the thread tight near the center but make it looser as you work outward. Otherwise, if you pull too tightly, it will pull over the previous thread. This is a little hard to explain but you'll understand once you start working this stitch.<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/199/488712154_ec8a2840c8_o.jpg" /><br />
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When you want to stop, take your thread to the back slightly under the edge of the outer thread and near one of the spokes. This will help to hide the end.<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/193/488712158_ca681ac055_o.jpg" /><br />
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Here's what it looks like when you stop the woven threads partway out and keep the ends of the spokes showing. <i>(I've used a fade-away marker for my circle, so the lines will disappear in a day or so).</i><br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/215/488712206_1fa7336779_o.jpg" /> <br />
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And here's another version with a second color in the center (just stop one color and start another) and the weaving taken all the way to the edge. The weaving creates a raised-off-the-surface texture and would be a cool way to do flowers!<br />
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<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/197/488741809_014942140f_o.jpg" />janethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13373382919479493215noreply@blogger.com11